I think my fingers froze off taking these pictures though…..
So, back at the end of Dec I ran across THIS link. And although my spice cabinet isn’t THAT bad, its not good, and after looking at my kitchen I realized I had a perfect spot to put it.
This is the cabinet end that is at my back when I’m standing facing the stove. Perfect!
Course, then the “how to make it work for me” started…..
That cabinet you see is CHEAP. Those sides aren’t solid, what you’re looking at is a very thin (not more than 1/8″) piece of laminate attached to the solid piece corners and a 1/2″ or so gap between it and the INSIDE decorative piece of laminate. So mounting anything to it is an issue. My spice cabinet had to be wide enough to mount to the solid corners. About 11 1 /2″.
That cabinet is 32″ tall, but thats out of my reach, I’d not be able to reach the top shelf most likely. So, I made mine 30″.
Also, that cabinet isn’t square to the wall, or else the doorway right there is wonky. There’s just over 3″ of protruding wall at the bottom of the cabinet, and a solid 4″ at the top. Since I don’t want to be banging my shoulder on the bottom corner the spice cabinet can’t be more than 3″ deep.
Color….I really don’t care for that fake medium oak color that my cabinets are. Dammed if I’m going to stain this spice cabinet to match. But staining it to match the wood in the living room (a medium cherry-ish color) would look odd in the kitchen. I’d about decided I’d just paint it black like in the link when my Husband suggested a dark stain instead. It looks very nice despite not matching.
Which way to swing the door….I really wanted it with the hinges on my right (facing the cabinet), but if I did that, and made the door the same width as the base cabinet, the door would bang into the wall before opening all the way. Thats not going to work….After some discussion with an acquaintance who does woodworking professionally (and has built kitchen cabinets) I considered an inset door, that sits inside the cabinet frame, but that takes a degree of accuracy that I wasn’t sure my woodworking skills were up to. After playing around with the idea I came up with a solution I’ll detail in a bit.
I had a few issues getting going, basically I was having a bad day and shouldn’t have been allowed to touch power tools since I couldn’t even manage basic subtraction correctly. But we got that straightened out.
Here it is while I figure out the shelf spacing. No, the picture’s not upside down, the spice jars are.
No comment on my wonky shelves…I have a level around here somewhere….
And the door after its first, fresh, coat of stain.
Yup, we went with a solid door. Mostly because I couldn’t find a metal grating that I liked that wouldn’t double or even triple the cost of the whole thing. But also, because even though it would have looked cool to have a glass or grated door, spices aren’t supposed to be exposed to light all the time. So, solid door it was.
Here’s how I mounted the door:
Basically the body of the cabinet is 2.5″ deep, but the one side is 3″ deep, and the door is 1/2″ to match.
And finished and hung:
And I discovered that I don’t need to buy cinnamon any time soon….ooops lol
Birch 2’x4′ plywood for door $17.95 (but I used less than half of it, so really, less than $9 for this and I still have most of it to do other things with)
Poplar 1×3 (actually 3/4″ x 2 1/2″) $13.10 ( I didn’t use it all, but I did use most of it, close enough)
Poplar 1×6 (actually 3/4″ x 5.5″) $7.14 (again, I didn’t use it all, but most of it)
Magnetic Catch: $0.98
1qt of stain: $7.77 (but I barely used any of it, I’d have bought a smaller can of it if they’d had it)
Birch edgeband for the door: $6.35 (but I used less than half of it for this so really $3.15)
1lb nails: $3.29 (but there’s most of them left….)
So, less than $40 if you don’t count the stain and nails (and considering how much is left I don’t). I can live with that!
Big Brother is considering dictating (Bill# S00473) how you train your dogs.
S 113-A. OBEDIENCE TRAINING; REQUIRED. 1. THE COMMISSIONER SHALL BY RULE OR REGULATION ESTABLISH REQUIREMENTS FOR BASIC OBEDIENCE COURSES FOR DOGS AND THEIR OWNERS WHICH MUST BE SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED PURSUANT TO THIS SECTION. SUCH REQUIREMENTS SHALL INCLUDE INSTRUCTION FOR THE OWNER ON THE PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING, AND INSTRUCTION ON AND PRACTICE OF OBEDIENCE TRAINING BY BOTH THE DOG AND ITS OWNER. FURTHERMORE, THE COMMISSIONER SHALL ESTABLISH MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS FOR THE SUCCESSFUL COMPLETION OF SUCH BASIC OBEDIENCE COURSES. 2. THE COMMISSIONER SHALL ESTABLISH REQUIREMENTS FOR DOG OBEDIENCE SCHOOLS WHICH ARE AUTHORIZED TO PROVIDE THE BASIC DOG OBEDIENCE COURSES FOR DOGS AND THEIR OWNERS AS REQUIRED BY THIS SECTION. 3. THE OWNER OF ANY DOG REACHING THE AGE OF ONE YEAR SHALL, ON OR BEFORE THE DATE SUCH DOG REACHES ONE YEAR OF AGE OR WITHIN ONE HUNDRED EIGHTY DAYS OF RECEIVING OWNERSHIP OF SUCH DOG, WHICHEVER SHALL BE LATER, SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE, WITH HIS OR HER DOG, A BASIC OBEDIENCE COURSE.
(text modified only to remove line numbers and make the paragraph work in the blog formatting)
So they want to dictate what and how our dogs are taught basic obedience. And require it of all dog owners. Which on the surface of things I can see the theory. But reality doesn’t work that way.
First off, its yet ANOTHER state dictated expense for dog owning. Unless they’re going to force trainers to offer the class for free, yah, that’d go over well. Or maybe they’ll decide to subsidise it. Like they are the minimum wage. Yah, lets do that *headdesk*
And lets look at the practical issues:
Working farm dogs, especially Livestock Guardian Dogs, almost never leave the home property, are frequently not house pets, and are unlikely to pass basic obedience (or have an owner who wants them too).
Hunting hounds are often not house pets, only leave the home property for hunting trips, and their owners are very unlikely to be interested in basic obedience classes.
A dog with dog aggression problems certainly needs training, but squashing one into a crowded “one size fits all” class will do them more harm than good.
Conformation show dogs are frequently taught modified obedience, including “down” or “stand” in place of “sit” because they don’t want the dogs sitting in the show ring. If the mandated training dictates the use of the command “sit” show dogs are screwed too.
Never mind that not all dogs learn the same way. What works for your average Lab might not work for your average hunting hound, never mind your average primitive breed. Oh yes, the primitives. Like the ones I own. Both of whom are perfectly safe in public. And both of whom would be very unlikely to pass your average “basic obedience” class, ESPECIALLY if it was done by the wrong trainer…..
HERE you can find your local Assemblymember and let them know what you think!
Click read more to see the letter I wrote.
3 chicken breasts (I didn’t weigh them, but they were pretty average sized)
Brined for 4hrs: 4 cups of water, 1/4cup sea salt, 1/4 turbinado sugar, 1 bay leaf, a heavy sprinkle of garlic powder, onion powder, mustard powder, ground pepper, and red pepper flakes
Smoked over hickory chunks.
Supposed to be to 165 internal, which should have taken about 1.5-2hrs, but I had a thermometer malfunction (its an elderly cheap digital and it didn’t like the outdoor temps of upper 20’s), and so they went a bit longer than they should have (closer to 2.5hrs) in order to be on the safe side. As a result they ended up a bit dryer than ideal.
Still tasty though, and they’ll work very very well for sandwich slices which was the point of the exercise. They aren’t going to last long though. I smoked them yesterday and between Husband and I they’re already half gone!
Gonna do turkey breasts next time….
Gonna have to buy a proper smoker and wireless thermometer if we keep on doing this……
Thats not actually a lead in to a rant. Its my own stupidity.
I knew that the large majority of my kitchen knives were duller than ideal….but I hadn’t realized how bad they’d gotten.
My inlaws gave us a new Cutco knife for Christmas. And its sharp.
I forgot. And handled it like I would have my usual knives.
Thankfully the cut isn’t any worse than a bad papercut, so I’m fine…..hopefully its a lesson learned! And time to get my knives sharpened…..
and since I’ve already screwed with my chances of not gaining weight for the holidays I’m going to share the recipe
Original basic marshmallow recipe here.
Add 1/4 teaspoon of peppermint extract at the same time you add the vanilla.
For a softer, almost melt in your mouth, marshmallow whip for the lesser amount of time (I barely did 10 minutes for this batch).
For a firmer “holds up better to toasting for s’mores” marshmallow whip for an extended period of time, 15minutes minimum, upwards of 20 reported by commenters on Facebook.
Its surprisingly easy to make these btw. You’ll need a candy thermometer (or a solid understanding of how to tell the candy stages apart), and you really do want a stand mixer, but you could do it with a powered hand mixer if you wanted, though you’d have to be extra sure of your prep ahead of time and you might need an extra set of hands for the mixing of the sugar syrup and the gelatin. The only strict part is the pulling them off the stove at the right temp part. And the only pain in the butt part is the cutting them apart and keeping them from sticking to everything part. Btw, I never have cornstarch on hand, I always just use extra powdered sugar.
I got 2lbs of marshmallows out of this batch…….
Well, he actually turned 4 on the 18th and I’m a little behind, but its so hard to believe that its been almost 4 years since we brought him home, looking like this:
And at the show in Mid Nov he even took Best Of Breed over his nephew!
aka: some moron who publishes for public consumption is trying to get people bitten
I’m NOT going to link to the actual article. But if you really want to read it, it was published on The Toast, and its titled “Tips for Getting the Most Out Of Strangers’ Dogs”. Note, The Toast isn’t exactly what I’d call high end reading, but unfortunately the article is making the rounds of Facebook…..
And its basically a set of instructions on how to get a strange dog to allow you to pet them without having to ask the dog owner for permission first…..
The FIRST thing the author tells you to do is lock eyes with the dog.
Locking eyes with a predator is an aggressive signal. While its true that certain training commands involve having a dog do that on command, outside of that setup its STILL an aggressive move even for those dogs. And while some dogs won’t care, others will be scared by the eye contact (oh yah, terrorizing the dog you want to pet is a good idea), and still others till respond in a very aggressive manner.
Never mind that there ARE dogs who’ll allow you to reach out a hand to pet them….only to snap at the hand because something triggered their fear at the last minute.
Never mind the SHEAR STUPIDITY that people insist on doing this sort of thing with working dogs (and no, just because you don’t see a vest on the dog doesn’t mean they’re not working).
So do yourself and every dog you meet a favor. Ask the owners permission BEFORE even approaching the dog. Do NOT lock eyes with the dog. And if at any point the owner indicates that your attention isn’t welcome or needs to stop, then DON’T PUSH IT.
This is the only picture I have of the master bathroom before we pulled it apart:
Taken shortly after we moved in if I recall right.
The bathroom is only 54″ wide. Its very long, at least for whats in it, but 54″ wide is tiny. At some point the previous owners had pulled out the original tub and surround and replaced it with a corner shower. To be fair, any tub that would fit in that space would be tiny, so I’d not have put in a new tub either. Under the shower base we could just see the corners of two boards, we assumed that they’d been put there to help angle the base correctly for draining.
Back at the end of Oct my husband came out of the bathroom to tell me that the bit of one board was soaking wet. When I checked it I confirmed that not only was it soaking wet, it had been for a while, it was black with collected mold.
We’ve got a water leak somewhere. Oh fun. Although we could access the shower water shut offs without pulling down the shower we had no idea where the leak was, or how much water damage had been done, so we made the decision to just pull down the shower (which wasn’t exactly a high end unit), fix whatever needed to be fixed, and replace it. Since we have a 2nd full bathroom, complete with the original tub/shower combo the lack of shower wasn’t going to be an issue and we could take our time getting it done once the leak and damage was fixed.
Pulling up and out the shower we discovered that there wasn’t a leaking pipe after all. The shower base itself had cracked just a bit at that corner allowing water to dribble right onto that supporting board. The drywall that the board had been right up against showed a little water damage, but after cutting that out I was able to confirm no real water damage due to the leak. Yay! Right?
Like all projects in a not new house it wasn’t that simple….
The shower walls had been supported by a series of 2×4’s screwed into the wall. Counting every single screw (of which there were over 20), 3 actually hit studs. The rest just went into drywall. With no drywall anchers. In two cases the only thing holding the boards on was the fact that they’d also used silicone. I have no clue how the whole mess stayed on the wall. We were able to literally just pull most of the boards straight out from the wall without removing the screws first.
Then there was what we found under the shower base:
I’m not sure what the hole on the left was, but I’m guessing old water damage that they “patched” when they replaced the tub. See the plumbing on the right? They had to redo the drain when they put in the shower. The pipe itself sticks up above the floor level by almost half an inch. The boards under the shower base weren’t to help tilt it for drainage. They were to support it so that it didn’t crush the plumbing. Cause that makes lots of sense……
See the kinda groady patch of vinyl between the two holes? It flexed in a very nasty way when we started to step on it in the process of pulling down the whole mess. When I pulled up the vinyl and very carefully put a foot on the spot it collapsed under a very small portion of my weight. Old water damage that was never fixed. Thankfully there didn’t appear to be any mold, just dry rot.
See those little black specs? Mouse turds. The visible insulation was full of them. SO MUCH FUN!!! Arg.
So I pulled up the “patch” on the left hole, confirmed the presence of mouse turds in the insulation under it. Pulled and threw away all the insulation in both holes, and then cut out the old water damaged spot and made the whole hole mostly square so it would be easier to patch:
The spot under the old water damage had basically no insulation (and more signs of mice). My cut opened up the next cavity that extends back under the floor of the rest of the bathroom. You’ll notice there’s not much insulation there too. At least there wasn’t any mouse turds in it. But a flashlight and an awkward angle to peer into the cavity confirmed what we’d suspected about the whole house. There was barely an inch of insulation under the rest of the floor.
We’d been pretty sure that the whole house needed to be re-insulated, but I wasn’t thrilled to get conformation of that fact.
I stuffed every nook and cranny I could reach full of insulation and made a quick patch till we could decide what we wanted to do.
(actually I took the picture prior to insulation, but you get the idea)
We’d hoped to put off any bathroom renovations till a few years down the road when we’d planned to spend several grand doing it right. We’re going to need to reinsulate obviously, the bathroom is the coldest room in the house. We want to put in heated floors. And a custom, 54″ wide, shower stall. So we weren’t interested in spending a fortune getting this done.
In the end we picked an inexpensive corner shower, made out of better quality plastic than the old one. Which of course meant we had to move the drain. But my Father-In-Law was able to do that for us, and while he was at it he fixed the too high plumbing.
And we put up the shower walls. And discovered that the corners of the room aren’t square. Not sure why I expected them to be, but you know how that goes….
There’s a piece of cement board under the shower now, to help with water control. And we’re in the process of putting down 1/2″ thick rubber matting on the floor to help with the cold floor problem……but otherwise the bathroom is done. Well. For now……